As a Brazilian-American Orthodox Jew, my earliest memories of visits to São Paulo entail eating cans of American tuna-fish, lovingly schlepped in my mother’s suitcase. Those days are gone. The current Orthodox traveler will find herself pleasantly surprised by the array of kosher food and Jewish life that São Paulo has to offer, especially in the area of Higienópolis/Santa Cecília, two neighborhoods that border each other. Their geographic span extends from Alameda Barros to Avenida Higienópolis, bordered by Avenida Angelica on one side, to Avenida Pacembu on the other.
Synagogues
There are two main synagogues in the area: Bait, the local Ashkenazi option, and Mekor Haim, the local Sephardi choice. There is a local Chabad synagogue, as well a pleasant Ashkenazi synagogue on Avenida Angelica, run by Rabbi Mordechai Malevani. This synagogue attracts an eclectic group of worshippers, and has a good Kiddush (snack) after Friday night services. There is also a local Bney Akiva branch, which sometimes has activities on Shabbat.
Kosher Options
As for kosher eating, there are quite a few options: Matok is a popular dairy choice: Its fare ranges from small snack-food, including the local delicacy, pão de queijo, to more filling entrees, such as eggplant parmesan and cheese ravioli. There is both a take-out and a sit-down option. The bakery section sells desserts, sandwiches-to-go, and challahs for Shabbat. There is also a frozen section that sells some microwaveable food. Be warned that Matok only accepts credit-cards for purchases of 50 reais or more.
For those in search of a fast-food option there is Pinati, also on Alameda Barros, which sells hamburgers, falafel, and shwarma. They are open for lunch and dinner, and are cheaper than Matok. There are both takeout and sit-down options.
Nearby lies Kosher Delight, which sells mostly packaged dairy foods to go, and is cheaper than Matok. There is some room to sit, but not much.
For those in search of a more upscale sit-down meal, there is Nur, the local fancy meat restaurant, which is a bit further out, near Pacembu. The food at this restaurant is excellent, and its atmosphere is pleasant. I recommend the shawarma platter. Expect to spend about 45 reais per person if ordering a meat entrée and a drink. Currently, Visa is the only accepted credit-card.
For those who wish to buy food, some corner grocery stores have basic kosher goods, including the one on the corner of Baronesa De Itu and Gabriel Dos Santos. Kosher Delight has basic supermarket goods. Those whose supermarket needs are more epensive can go to Super K, the local kosher grocery store.
Other Neighborhood Perks
Sefer, the local Jewish bookstore, is located on Alameda Barros, near Matok and Pinati. A visit to the store highlights both the commonalities of Jewish culture around the globe, and what makes Jewish Brazilian culture unique. There is also the local mall, Shopping Patio Higienópolis, located between Veiga Filho and Avenida Higienópolis.
This mall is beautiful and pleasant to spend time in, and has everything from clothing to electronics. Its stores tend to be on the pricey side. The mall has a movie theater, and also hosts theatrical productions, though most of those productions are in Portuguese.
If one proceeds a little bit up Avenida Angelica, one will come to Parque Buenos Aires, a small and pleasant park that is perfect for an afternoon picnic.
Things To Do Around São Paulo
São Paulo is one of South America’s biggest and most modern metropolises. As such, one would be losing out by limiting oneself to the Higienópolis attractions. Located within a twenty-minute walking distance of Higienópolis lies MASPI, the local art museum. This well-organized art museum has a collection worth visiting. Another popular place is Praça da Sé, the old part of São Paulo. In addition to the square itself, which hosts a beautiful church and affords a glimpse of old Paulista architecture, there is also the nearby Pateo do Collegio, which has a museum dedicated to Father Anchieta, considered the founder of São Paulo.
If one walks up Rua Direita, which is next to Praça da Sé, one will make one’s way towards the Teatro Municipal, an example of Colonial architecture at its finest. Tours are of the inside are offered. Another worthwhile destination is Praça da República, which host an outdoor market of hand-made Brazilian handcrafts.
For those in search of good clothing shopping who do not wish to pay the prices of the Higienópolis mall, a few hours in the neighborhood of Bom Retiro is a good option. There is also Parque do Ibirapuera, São Paulo’s Central Park, and the Pinacoteca museum near the Estação da Luz, an architectural marvel in its own right. The football museum is also worth a visit.
Where to Stay
Unfortunately, Santa Cecília and Higienópolis tend to be on the pricey side when it comes to accommodations, lacking the hostels that dot many of São Paulo’s other neighborhoods. Higienópolis Hotel & Suites, located on Avenida Angelica, is a good option. Rates vary throughout the year but generally hover near the 120 dollars range. The hotel offers large, clean rooms with free wi-fi.
Those in search of more luxurious quarters might prefer the Hotel Tryp, where rooms go for around 220 dollars a night. The Hotel Ville offer clean, comfortable accommodation and goes for around 200 a night. There is also the Transamérica Classic Higienópolis, which is near the border between Higienópolis and Pacaembu. This hotel offers luxurious apartment-style living.
Safety
When walking around São Paulo, it is best to avoid wearing flashy jewelery, especially near Praça da Sé and Praça da República, two areas that should be avoided at night. In general, walking alone late at night is inadvisable. Santa Cecília and Higienópolis are among São Paulo’s safest neighborhoods, though the streets do get a little empty after ten thirty pm. In the end, São Paulo is a city, and as such, one should take the basic precautions one would take in any major urban area.
São Paulo, once the place American Orthodox Jews went to eat canned tuna-fish, is now home to an ever-growing variety of kosher options, along with some worthy tourist attractions, not to mention an expanding economy that makes it an increasingly popular business destination. So come to the neighborhoods of Santa Cecília/Higienópolis, where you can enjoy the best of São Paulo while keeping kosher and attending synagogue – and remember, if you get bored, Rio is only a one-hour flight away, making it an easy day trip.
For More Information
Food
Matok – Alameda Barros, 921 Hours: M-Th 9:30 am -7:00 pm, F 9:30 am-3:00 pm, Sun 9:30 am -7:30 pm. Closed Sat. Phone: (11) 3661-2111
Pinati – Alameda Barros, 782. Hours: Sun-Th: 12 pm -10 pm. Fri: 12 pm -3:30 pm. Tel. (11) 3668-5424.
Nur – R. Tupi, 792. Hours: Lunch: M-F 12 pm-3 pm, Sun. 12 pm-3:30 pm. Dinner: 7:30 pm-11:00 pm S-Th. Sat: open for dinner only, until midnight. Phone: (11) 3666-4992
Super K – R. Traipu 66. Hours: M-Th: 8:30 am -11 pm. F: 8:30 am-3:00 pm. Sun: 9 am – 11 pm. Phone: (11) 3663-3030
Kosher Delight – Rua Baronesa De Itu, 436. Hours: 7 am-7 pm, M-Th. F: 7am – 2pm. Sun: 8 m -2 pm. Phone: (11) 3661-3106.
Sights
Shopping Patio Higienópolis open Mon-Sat, 10 am - 10 pm. Sun 2 pm - 8 pm.
Teatro Municipal The theater is open for tours Tues-Sun. Tours should be arranged in advance. To arrange a tour, email tmeducativo@prefeitura.sp.gov.br
MASP The museum is open Tues-Sun, 11 am - 6 pm. On Thursdays it is open until 8. Admission is 18 reais, but free on Wednesdays.
Football (Soccer) Museum Open Tues-Sun. Visitors may enter 9 am- 5 pm, but the museum remains open until 6. Admission is 6 reais (3 for students or seniors).
Jewish Life
Bait synagogue – Rua Baronesa De Itu, 438. Phone: (11) 3663-2838. Schedule varies throughout the year, but if you email them ahead of time (bait@bait.org.br) they will email you a prayer schedule and list of upcoming events.
Mekor Haim synagogue – Rua São Vicente de Paulo, 276. Phone: (11) 3826-7699. Prayer times vary throughout the year.
Chabad of Higienópolis/Center Tiferet Lubavitch –726 Rua Alagoas (11) -3666-7783
Chabad of São Paulo - Rua Melo Alves 580 (11)3081-3081
Where To Stay
Shayna Abramson - Shayna Abramson is an alumnus of Johns Hopkins University, where she was an active member of the Johns Hopkins Interfaith Center. She ...
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